Appalachian Trail 2020, Day 15: NOC to Sassafras Gap Shelter
Almost two years after wrapping up day 14 at the Nantahala Outdoor Center, I picked the
trail back up right where I left it - starting a new 3 day section hike from the NOC,
this time with my wife Christy joining for her first backpacking trip. It took a
last-minute change of plans, a hot climb out of the river gorge, and a run-in with a
very large rattlesnake to get us to Sassafras Gap Shelter. Watch the video below, then
read on for the full story.
A Last-Minute Change of Plans
This trip almost didn't happen at all, at least not this way. Christy and I had a bike
trip planned for the weekend on the Withlacoochee Trail back home in Florida, but the
night before we checked the forecast - mid 90s and brutal humidity. Just out of
curiosity I checked the weather up in North Carolina instead, and it was showing a high
around 82 with far less humidity. That was all it took. We swapped the bikes for
backpacks and decided to resume the Appalachian Trail section hike right where I'd
left off at the NOC back in 2019.
A Rocky Start at Fontana
We drove up from Florida, stopped overnight in a hotel in Ellijay, and finished the
last two hours of driving to Fontana Dam the next morning. From there we needed a
shuttle back to the NOC to start hiking north - but the shuttle driver was almost an
hour late, and with no cell service at the dam, we started to worry and began driving
ourselves down the road looking for him. We finally spotted him coming the other way
and flagged him down in a parking lot. By the time we reached the NOC, the restaurant
had a 30 minute wait, so we ducked into the general store instead, grabbed some
ready-made food, and scarfed it down before finally hitting the trail at 2:30 - already
about an hour behind schedule.
Climbing Out of the NOC
The Appalachian Trail crosses the railroad tracks right at the NOC and heads north,
and it wastes no time getting serious. It's a steady 6 mile climb straight out of the
river gorge, and between the afternoon heat and the humidity clinging to the hillside,
Christy and I were both drenched within the first mile. Still, it beat the alternative
- we kept reminding each other that this was a whole lot better than baking on a bike
trail in Florida.
Coins, a Spring, and the Jump Up
A little way up the climb we reached the Wade Sutton Memorial plaque, where hikers
leave coins as they pass - a nice small milestone to break up a long, hot ascent. Not
much further along we came across a spring and stopped to filter water before pushing
on to an overlook known as "the Jump Up," which delivered a solid payoff view after
all that climbing. With the last mile of the day mostly a descent into Sassafras Gap,
it finally felt like the hardest part of the day was behind us.
A Rattlesnake on the Trail
Right near the end of the day, we rounded a bend and found a big rattlesnake coiled up
right on the trail. Christy was, understandably, not thrilled about it, and we ended
up waiting it out until the snake decided to move along on its own before we could get
past. It was the kind of moment that's a lot funnier in hindsight than it was standing
there in person.
Pad Thai and a New Tent at Sassafras Gap
We rolled into Sassafras Gap Shelter around 8:30 that evening, later than planned but
still in good spirits, having covered 6.9 miles. A few other hikers were already
settled into the shelter, so we pitched our brand new 3 person tent for its first real
test and cooked up a pad Thai dinner - Christy wasn't totally sold on it yet, but there
were still two more days on the trail for it to grow on her. A good first day back on
the AT, even if it didn't go quite according to schedule.